Harare: When you are not waiting!

Harare: when you are not waiting

We are based at Small World Backpackers, Avondale, which is a small suburb northwest of the city. From here we can walk to the shops at Avondale, which are quite pleasant, unless you get distracted whilst shopping for cheese. Avondale is a 20 min walk into town or a taxi ride for $5

The backpackers provides refuge for all sorts of travellers that are coming though Zimbabwe, and we have met lots of interesting people here. We have taken a room here, and enjoy the benefits of a real bed, and our own shower, and make good use of the kitchen but t $45 it isn’t the cheapest break.

We have visited the National Archives in the far northern suburbs, and for a person interested in the history of Zimbabwe, it is a must, Glen was in heaven. I, however, enjoyed looking at their comprehensive archive of photographs of ‘Old Zimbabwe’ when the colonials were here.

The Lion and Cheetah Park is a must see. It consists of 3 areas:

1. A small lion game park you can drive through that has 5 male lions in it. Here you literally have lions only a meter away from you, and you can really appreciate the size of these majestic beasts. Surrounding this area, are 2 other enclosures containing lions and lionesses.

2. Another game park, a kilometre long, containing zebras, wildebeests, ostriches, baboons, and a variety of deer.

3. Lastly, a zoo area.

Although, a bit dilapidated this is an amazing experience. We paid our entrance fee of $10, and made our way to the Lions. Windows firmly closed, we drove in through a rusty gate, and sat in the car next to these creatures. Wonderful. Huge lions with their red manes, just a breath away from us, going about their daily routine. Just an honour to be so close to such an amazing creature.

From there we made our way past the other lions to the game park. Ostriches running in front of us like drag queens late for their show, and a real zebra crossing. A small park, but great for viewing.

Then to the zoo. I am not too keen on zoos, but this privately own zoo is just so unique it is a must see. We were greeted by a friendly guide, who took us to meet Tommy, a Galapagos Tortoise who was approximately 300 years old, and who had been at the park for 45 years. As big as a coffee table, we were allowed to scratch his neck. He graced us with his company until he decided it was to time to go to bed, so he ambled off to his own ronval house and took to his bed.

We were then escorted through the zoo to meet the many residents: more lions, cheetahs, crocodiles, hyenas, jackels and much more. The animals here are hand raised, and many come from a disadvantaged backgrounds, for example the jackel was a victim of a hit and run, and came to the park to give it a second chance, as it sustained a leg injury, that would have surely marked the end of its days in the wild.

The lions are hand reared, so, they can be used for walking with lion’s tours, education, and movie work. We were fortunate enough to actually go in and meet two 11 month males; to get up so close is just so incredible.

Faradales, the Selfridges of Zimbabwe, was a bit of a disappointment. Once the flagstore of Zimbabwe, located in a lovely colonial building in the centre of Harare, it has been relocated to a suburban mall in Barrowsdale, and is hard to distinguish between any other camping/ shooting store. It was a pilgrimage for Glen as the legend that is John Simpson always goes there when he is in Zimbabwe to buy his shoes. So, off we went, and spent an afternoon in the suburbs. Barrowsdale is a glimpse into what Harare probably once was, clean, organised and predominately white.

Although we have been stuck in Harare, and are incredibly frustrated, we have met some amazing and positive people. Our troubles are so small in comparison to what they have all gone through. The hyper inflation of 2008 left so many with nothing, lives have been rebuilt, again and again. Hopes have been raised and dashed...but yet, the overall outlook is one of optimism. You walk down the street, and always are welcomed with a smile, and a greeting. When I tell people of Mum’s history here, and that we are going to Kariba, I have been again and again welcomed Home. Even yesterday our taxi driver implored us to come and live here, as ‘our country need people like you’. We pointed out that the current government weren’t too keen on the British, and he replied that his government, the peoples government wanted us there, which we thought was a lovely sentiment.